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bluess57
19-05-2007, 12:32 PM
To all the ripshifters here,
anyone have troubles hitting synchros on 1->2 change?
I know my gearbox does... just put transmax Z in it as well.
Whats a gearbox rebuild worth?

Tonner
19-05-2007, 03:01 PM
To all the ripshifters here,
anyone have troubles hitting synchros on 1->2 change?
I know my gearbox does... just put transmax Z in it as well.
Whats a gearbox rebuild worth?

Blue its just poped a synchro cone, Id say form cold quick shifts when the oil is thick, or bad clutch adjustment or changing without disengaging the clutch properly,,

shouldn't cost that much, I wouldn't think.

Hazza
19-05-2007, 05:14 PM
Hey Ian.

My 1st to 2nd is progressively getting worse as my standard clutch ages. I think it might be dying slowly, and not disengaging completely making shifts harder.

Did yours just start having the problem when the new clutch went in or did it start happening when the old one was dying?

bluess57
19-05-2007, 06:35 PM
Hazza,
The 1->2 has never been all that good. I think the old shifter being so slow to change meant the synchros could cope.
Only put the ripshift in when the new clutch went in.
But I regularly mash gears now :(

Hazza
19-05-2007, 11:18 PM
Hmm.. damn it might well be the synchro's are end of life. Or hopefully what Tonner said. I will find out who Marcus uses for box's and ask some questions, because if a new clutch doesn't fix my shifts I will be in the same boat.

Quadcams
20-05-2007, 05:16 AM
Hazza,
The 1->2 has never been all that good. I think the old shifter being so slow to change meant the synchros could cope.
Only put the ripshift in when the new clutch went in.
But I regularly mash gears now :(

I have had these problems in the past, more than likely the clutch was the problem at first (possible clutch drag)or maybe hydrolic problem but as soon as you start crunching gears you start to damage syncros,gear teeth and the problem just gets worse and a box rebuild is needed to eliminate the problems (new syncros etc).
Had a new clutch installed once and had problems getting gears, replaced slavecylinder thinking it was that as the clutch was new but all the time it was the clutch it self causing the problem, just recently had a brand new twin plate and at the same time the box was fully rebuilt and was real hard getting gears, thought it could not be the box so put a different twin plate in and sure enough it changes gears like cutting through butter (also using a ripshifter), I wasnt going through another box rebuild.
What clutch are you using?

I dont think this would be the problem but had a mate that had his ripshfter come loose where it connects to the box whilst racing, went 1st then straight into reverse :shock: must of sounded horendous not to mention the damage t did to the box.

bluess57
20-05-2007, 11:28 AM
Clutch is an Extreme.
Must add that slow shifting 1->2 is ok
Looks like I'll book it for a rebuild come Tax refund time...

Tonner
20-05-2007, 12:25 PM
Clutch is an Extreme.
Must add that slow shifting 1->2 is ok
Looks like I'll book it for a rebuild come Tax refund time...

The synchro may well be still ok, if it needs replacing you will still need to fix the problem of not fully disengaging the clutch, or what ever the problem is, or it will wear or pop the circlip again,
Its what I call racing the synchro,( you may be able to hear it whinging at you during the change), the synchros were invented to bring the gears to a simlar speed to alow those gears to mesh without grating.
but if there is force on the front (input) shaft, (engine still driving it, even lightly) it makes it too hard of a job for the synchro,

I have had very little to do with the t56's but I would start by bleeding out the old fluid and using something like castrol srf as a replacement, a bit of a trick to bleed these buggers too without the extension bleeder mod.

just thought I'd add the little bit I know, but like I said I haven't had much to do with these particular transmissions, and, there could be other factors here and I dont mind being corrected.

cheers

bluess57
20-05-2007, 01:18 PM
All good, any ideas helpful.
BTW a new slave cyclinder was installed. So I'd assume the lines would have to have been bled.
I can't really hear the synchro whining during the change.

Oh well, here's to hoping some wear on the clutch will alleviate the problem.

(Racing the synchros - yeah, back in school days mate had a HR triple su's, cammed 186 with 4 speed muncie box. Now that use to whine on the synchros.)

Quadcams
22-05-2007, 03:20 PM
Clutch is an Extreme.
Must add that slow shifting 1->2 is ok
Looks like I'll book it for a rebuild come Tax refund time...
Exactly the same, slow shift fine but quick shift got messy.
I had a Extreme cluch in my car previously (actually had 2, first one died straight away gave me a new one for free) and as soon as it was installed had trouble getting gears replace slave cylinder rebleed it numorus times no improvement, ended up munching 1st and 2nd syncros and 2nd gear teeth.
Have heared of many of this brand causing same problems, get your self a Textralia you'll never look back.

HSVSV6
22-05-2007, 03:35 PM
the early lsi commodores had problem with the slave which isnt changed normally when you do a clutch on these as it is concentric and also runs the relase bearing check this first

RIDE:42
22-05-2007, 08:46 PM
Due to the poor spring material used that is what you get when you use an Extreme fast gear changes are like :headbang:

Hazza
28-05-2007, 02:11 PM
That's a bit harsh. This particular Extreme model is a good performer on 3 cars I have tested it on and my best mate has one in his VY SS with ripshift and it shifts as snappy as anything I have driven with no issues.

Since the 1->2 shift hasnt been great for a while, it probably started when the stock (or previous extreme) was wearing out and not disengaging properly. That's what mine seems to be doing. Its on the original clutch and sometimes I get some resistance on 1->2 ripshift changes and my original clutch is partially engaged even if the pedal is flat to the floor. I tested this by pushing the clutch in all the way and free revving the engine while in gear and it started overheating and smelling.

HSVSV6
28-05-2007, 02:29 PM
thats the norm with the slave cylinder sucking in air bleed the system and itll be ok again for a period of time anyway

bluess57
02-06-2007, 12:47 PM
Just to add - It crunches 2nd gear when changing north of 5000rpm