HOW TO: Steering rack boot replacement

[DaveHAT]

One of the most common problems for VT onwards Commodore owners who fit aftermarket headers is the melting of the steering boots. Due to the relative closeness of the headers to the steering rack boots this is something that's almost impossible to avoid.

NOTE: DiFillipo supply heat shields with their headers and I think aftermarket heat shields can be purchased from some exhaust shops.

Anyway, I decided to replace both of mine recently as I suspected they would be stuffed. Inspection confirmed this.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/start.JPG

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Needle nose pliers
19mm socket and ratchet handle
Side cutters.
Lump hammer x 2
Large shifting spanner
Steering rack replacement boot kit (should contain 1 x boot and 2 x zip ties) available from most parts replacement places


NOTE:
To replace the steering rack boots you will need to jack the front of the car up and support it on carstands for safety. Then remove both front wheels for ease of replacement.

Step 1: Remove the split pin from the tie rod end.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/18.JPG

Step 2: Loosen/remove the nut on the tie rod end using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/31.JPG

Step 3. Back the locking nut off the lower control arm using the shifter or suitable large open ended spanner.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/21.JPG

Step 4. Break the tie rod end away from the front hubs/struts. DO NOT HIT THE TOP OF THE TIE ROD THREAD TO DO THIS.... you should now have this:
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/41.JPG
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/51.JPG

Step 5. Remove the tie rod end and locking nut ...
NOTE: Make sure you count off the number of turns required to remove the tie rod end so that you can wind it back into approx. the same position:
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/61.JPG
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/71.JPG

Step 6: With the tie rod end and bolt removed, cut the 2 zip ties at either end holding the stuffed steering rack boot on:
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/81.JPG

[DaveHAT]

Step 7:
With the zip ties cut you can remove the old steering rack boot. Simply a matter of sliding it over the tie rod by pulling it:
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/91.JPG
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/101.JPG

NOTE:
Ensure you keep everything as clean as possible and don't let grit/dirt/crud etc get into the now exposed steering arm.

Step 8:
Inspect the now stuffed boot:
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/111.JPG

Step 9:
Slide the new boot over the steering arm and secure using the zip ties provided: Make sure the end connecting to the steering rack is on correctly to prevent dirt getting into the steering rack.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/151.JPG

Step 10:
Put the securing bolt and tie rod end back onto the steering tie rod remembering to wind it back on the same number of turns that it was removed:
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/161.JPG

Step 11:
Put the tie rod into the hub and replace the nut. Tighten the tie rod end securing nut using the shiffter or open ended spanner and tie rod nut using the 19mm socket and ratchet.. NOTE: ALWAYS USE A NEW SPLIT PIN.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/171.JPG

Step 12:
Bend the ends of the split pin over and out of the way:
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/181.JPG

Step 13:
Almost done. Re-check that everything is tightened and secure... then stand back with brew of choice in hand and marvel at your now completed job.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/19.JPG

LAST BUT NOT LEAST: Put the wheels back on and go for a test drive.

NOTE: By removing the tie rod ends you will have altered the wheel alignment of the car and it is advised that a wheel alignment be done ASAP.

Cheers and I hope some people may find this information useful. :beer:

DISCLAIMER:
This was just how I did the repairs and others may argue that there are other/better ways of replacing steering rack boots. I am not a qualified mechanic and just a home enthusiast with an interest in cars. The owners of trackchat bare no responsibilty for any problems or complications members may incur undertaking this repair using this guide.

[scat2k3]

You make it look so easy Dave. Another sterling effort. :thumbs:

Cheers,

Scott

[Febs]

Great writeup Dave, thanks!

I'm fortunate enough to still have in-tact boots on the Calais, but if the time comes (looks at speedo with 130,000km...), I'll know where to look. :D

Cheers,
- Febs.

[BOMI]

Very good write up Dave :bow: :bow: :bow:


In the heat shielding department (a suposed fetish of mine) you can purchase


http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Image100.jpg
This was laying around the garage :lol:

The bigger box is a self adhiesive backed sheet of thermo reflective material. It is said to block 90% of heat.

For only $17.95 it has more then enough to do both boots. Just use light weight tie wire to fix onto the boots.


Not sure how much other shield cost but this one has done me for nearly a year.

Troy :)

[NickS]

Another awesome write up from Dr Pumpkin ... is there anything this man can't do ??? :bravo:

:cheers:

[35R]

Great info and contribution Dave, well done.

[RedVYIISS]

He's a tallent is our Dave. Any tips on relocating auto trans system cooling lines....

[DaveHAT]

Another awesome write up from Dr Pumpkin ... is there anything this man can't do ??? :bravo:

:cheers:

:yep: ... build gazebo's & fight terrorism !

Al:
Best way to relocate the cooler line AFAIK is to fit a T56, eliminates the problem completely... :waving:

[DaveHAT]

Very good write up Dave :bow: :bow: :bow:


In the heat shielding department (a suposed fetish of mine) you can purchase


http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Image100.jpg
This was laying around the garage :lol:

The bigger box is a self adhiesive backed sheet of thermo reflective material. It is said to block 90% of heat.

For only $17.95 it has more then enough to do both boots. Just use light weight tie wire to fix onto the boots.


Not sure how much other shield cost but this one has done me for nearly a year.

Troy :)

Troy, where did you get that stuff from? :confused:

Hmm, I should be asking: "given the amount of the stuff in your possession are you the national distributor for this product?" :stick:

[BOMI]

Dave you can get it from Rare Spare and other Auto shops.

If you need some mate give me a call.


Troy :)

[C4B]

Very informative.... You should work for Gregories because your description was a hell of a lot better than a lot of the ones in their manuals......

PS. Nice use of photo's to illustrate what you were doing.....

[OLS108]

Great Thread Dave
this is what i really Enjoy about the forums.

I have one for Changing Rear brake Pads i will post in a Moment.
Cheers
Dave

[235rwkw]

good stuff.

somene should do a movie of a job, so we can hear all the cursing as well.

So how did you seperate the tie rod? 2 options I've used are:

1..a special tool that fit inbetween and you hit to seperate it, shaped like a wedge
2..or put another solid nut back wind it back down to just before the thread comes out the top and hit that. prevents stuffing the thread.

penetrating oil before either option.

[DaveHAT]

good stuff.

somene should do a movie of a job, so we can hear all the cursing as well.

So how did you seperate the tie rod? 2 options I've used are:

1..a special tool that fit inbetween and you hit to seperate it, shaped like a wedge
2..or put another solid nut back wind it back down to just before the thread comes out the top and hit that. prevents stuffing the thread.

penetrating oil before either option.

Oops I negelcted to mention that, sorry.

Option 2 worked for me although a balljoint splitter could be used as well

Penetrating oil would also be a good idea.

[Ron]

Another excellent how to Dave :bravo: ,you are a man of many talents and have experienced them 1st hand well done !!!!!