Whiteline sway bar.

[BOMI]

I have recently purchased a Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar for the SS.

It was about $220 online at the Whiteline store less shipping.

It should be here by this Friday so Ill try to put in on Saturday and will take some pics and post up how I went.

I have done rear suspension before on a Holden but she was a little older then the SS. HZ Kingswood, my first car.

Anyway, stay tuned.


Troy :)

[BOMI]

Well the Sway bar didnt turn up so this weekend Ill do my brake bleed instead of putting in the SB.

I called White line yesterday and they told me that as they receive orders they make the product. So in other words they dont have a huge factory of sway bars and springs sitting every where. Interesting way to do business, must save them some money I reckon.

Anyway, next weekend!


Troy :)

[BOMI]

Well it finaly got here, will put it in this weekend. I had no idea the rear sway bar on a VY SS was so small.

Will post up side by side pics of the FE2 and Whiteline swaybars.

http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Image002.jpg

Troy :D

[NickS]

I called White line yesterday and they told me that as they receive orders they make the product. So in other words they dont have a huge factory of sway bars and springs sitting every where. Interesting way to do business, must save them some money I reckon.

Known as "Just in Time" manufacturing Troy ... only make products as they are ordered thereby eliminating the need for storage space, reducing the chances of having to write off obsolete stock and generally minimising costs. You would find that their raw marerials are kept to a minimum also, goods are ordered only when required, then used to make products they have already sold. As you said, definately saves money, just means turn around is a bit slower.

That's enough for the economics lesson ... look forward to seeing your install write up !!!

[BOMI]

Well I had a very good go at installing the Whiteline sway bar but all I could manage was the removal of the factory sway bar.

It came out in about 45 minutes and was very fiddly to use techo speak!! The U mount that holds the bar to the car has one bolt that is very very very hard to get to due to there being very little room to swing a spanner let alone get your hand in there.

So the stock one came off but the Whiteline would not go back on. Very very frustrating indeed. The bolt that holds that U mount and bar on is hard to screw into place with nothing there, trust me I tried and with the bar and U bracket it just would not screw in, soooooooo.

My car has no rear sway bar and its off to the local suspension place first thing tomorrow.

Here is a pic of the stock and Whiteline Blade adjustable sway bars next to each other. Once they get it in Ill post up how the new bar feels.

http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Troys_Car.jpg

I should have included something into the pic so you could see how small in size VY sway bars are, they are only about 90cm long.

Troy :headbang:

[BOMI]

OK so I took my car to the local suspension shop today and it's final, the rear sway bar on on a VY is not a DIY install. Its ok to get out but trying to get it in is a real pain in the A.

Troy :headbang:

[RedVYIISS]

Hope I didn't lead you astray.... I must admit that I thought the rear sway was easy to fit.

[BOMI]

Hey Allan, its cool, I had actulay forgotten that you did a Whiteline thread on V8O.

Its easy to get out but back in as I said above is... :headbang:

Troy

[lautray]

Troy, would be a good idea to change your front geometry settings too. But those suspension guys are probably sick of seeing you!! Factory settings will not help you at all. The compromise works quite well with camber & toe: -1.5 deg neg camber & 1mm toe IN each side. Doesn't chew out inner of tyre & turns in a lot sharper too. Very good for street & better for track.

[BlooHAT]

Firstly, sorry for digging up a old thread.

Just interested in the difference this made to your car Bomi, are you into circuit, and did it make much difference to your times ?

Do you know if its the same thing on a ute ?

Does it make the car nicer to drive, or just stiffer/more stable on the road ?

Thanks
Dan

[BOMI]

Mate not a problem :thumbs:

Firstly I feel that it tightened up the rear end, it also gives me the confidence to attack corners with more balls now. Yep, Im into circuit!!

So yeah its was better then stock, as you would have seen the stick rear bar was tiny.

Not sure about utes as they are lighter in the rear so sorry I cant help out there.

For the price it's worth doing.


Troy :cheers:

[lautray]

Personal experience is my car went from understeer to oversteer. Definitely better though.

Edit: as Troy said, put it on the to-do list.

[Febs]

FWIW, those considering the front sway bar - I'm told it's a BIG job. Several hours at a workshop.

I've had a great experience with Whiteline before. Bought a 2nd hand strut brace, but it didn't come with bolts or instructions. Rang them up, asking if I could buy the bolts from them...and the bloke on the phone said "Mate, I'll send you out a pack no worries. What's your address?"

Now that's customer service. :thumbs:

Cheers,
- Febs.

[BOMI]

Yeah your correct Febs, the cross member has to be removed :eek:


Troy :)

[saj]

Firstly, sorry for digging up a old thread.

Just interested in the difference this made to your car Bomi, are you into circuit, and did it make much difference to your times ?

Do you know if its the same thing on a ute ?

Does it make the car nicer to drive, or just stiffer/more stable on the road ?

Thanks
Dan

I did my first track day since fiting whiteline adjustable sway bars. I set them up on stiffest setting on the rear and 2nd stiffest on the front. I found it settled the car in the high speed change of direction sections but had bad turn in over steer on the tight slow sections.I think i need to stiffen the front a bit or soften the rear slightly, i havnt worked out which yet.

[OZY 260]

Just checking with you guys your thoughts on the adjustable front and rear sway bars? Do you think these are a good mod? If so would whiteline be the recomended supplier?

Brett

[Aeron]

Just checking with you guys your thoughts on the adjustable front and rear sway bars? Do you think these are a good mod? If so would whiteline be the recomended supplier?

Brett


I've got the adjustable Whiteline bars in my VX and they are great. They are easy to adjust too. Whiteline would be the recomended supplier.

[VooDoo]

FWIW, those considering the front sway bar - I'm told it's a BIG job. Several hours at a workshop.

I've had a great experience with Whiteline before. Bought a 2nd hand strut brace, but it didn't come with bolts or instructions. Rang them up, asking if I could buy the bolts from them...and the bloke on the phone said "Mate, I'll send you out a pack no worries. What's your address?"

Now that's customer service. :thumbs:

Cheers,
- Febs.


Not that big a job just annoying unless you have a hoist. You need to hold the engine up and drop the K frame down 2". Other than that its not too bad.

[OZY 260]

Thanx Aeron, i'll give whiteline a call

Brett

[VooDoo]

Stolen from Mungel

Installment 2, is the DIY installation of a larger 30mm Front sway bar.. It can be a pain in the arse to do but its easier than doing a clutch because there's less heavy lifting and more room to work with! This is not the only way to do it, no doubt there are other ways, this was how i did it though.

Tools:

10mm Spanner / Socket
13mm Spanner / Socket
16mm Socket
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
22mm Socket*
3/4" Deep Socket (An 11/16" can be used but doesn't fit as well)
Ratchet
Socket Extensions (5" or more recommended)
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Loctite
Jack
Jack Stands (Minimum of 2 - preferably 4)
Note: * = Not 100% certain on the size, may be a 21mm (This is only needed if removing the struts.)

Expected Injuries:
None!!

You may not need to remove the front struts. I already had mine out to put FE2 back in it. IMO It's best to remove them, gives you a lot more usable room, and there is less components for the sway bar to get caught on.

Instructions for removing front struts can be found here. (http://forum.streetcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?t=8515229)

Torque Settings For Reassembly
Engine Mount Bolts - 60nm
Crossmember Bolts - 90nm
(Strut torque settings can be found in the strut removal thread above)

Alrighty, starting from the beginning,

1
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/fpv_eta/Suspension/SB1.jpg
With the front of the vehicle raised and resting on 2 jack stands, we can connect the engine crane to the motor, ready to support it when i undo the engine mounts and k-frame. Whilst work on the top end, using an extension or 4 and a 13mm socket, undo the 4 nuts holding the sway bar in. (If you can't get to it with a socket, you can get to it with a spanner in step 3.)

2
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/fpv_eta/Suspension/SB2.jpg
To make room for a rather large 'D' Shackle, i had to unclip the power steering reservoir.

3
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/fpv_eta/Suspension/SB3.jpg
I'd already removed the front struts in preparation to re-fit FE2 suspension, you could possibly change the sway bar without removing them, however i reckon for the extra 3 bolts, you may as well.

Note: It is advisable to unplug the ABS plug from the hub, Otherwise you run the risk of breaking it as i did... :doh:

4
No picture for this step sorry.
Once all bolts holding the k-frame are undone, place a pair of axle stands (or anything to hold it up) under the k-frame to prevent it falling. Now undo the engine mount bolts from underneath the k-frame.

Note: At this stage, it may also be helpful to remove the intake, and the radiator fan shroud. This gives you enough room get your hands down there and maneuver the sway bar to get it out.

5
Again, no picture sorry - there's not a great deal to show.
Once the k-frame has been dropped allowing plenty of clearance between k-frame and chassis rail, raise the motor up as far as it can go without damaging anything. With the motor connected to the transmission and the transmission mounted to the vehicle the motor won't come straight up, it will follow the same sort of path that a clock hand does when it goes from 9 to 12.

Note: It can be quite fiddly if the motor isn't up high enough. Common places for the sway bar to foul on are the sump and the chassis rails. Don't be afraid to flex the sway bar. It'll bend before any other component breaks - its what they do!

6
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/fpv_eta/Suspension/SB4.jpg
Both sway bars side by side. The standard FE2 one (black) is 27mm, as opposed to the Whiteline one (silver) which is 30mm.

7
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/fpv_eta/Suspension/SB5.jpg
Whilst it took a good 20minutes to get the standard one out due to all the bends, Sliding the whiteline swaybar in took about 3 minutes. The 4 holes is how you get you're adjustment. In most cases the outermost hole is the softest setting and the furthermost front hole is the stiffest.

8
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/fpv_eta/Suspension/SB6.jpg
With the shroud removed, you can see it sitting beneath the sump.

Note: When sliding the swaybar in, it is not necessary to put the grease and bushes on at first. Once its sitting in its rightful place, you can grease up the bushes and 'clip' the bushes over the sway bar from the wheel arch.

9
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/fpv_eta/Suspension/SB7.jpg
Swaybar in, bush & grease fitted and clamp tightened.

10
Get a wheel alignment!

And you're more or less done. After this, the most difficult job is lining up the engine mounts with the k-frame. I found it easier to get one mount stud through the k-frame and put the nut loosely over it to prevent it from coming out (still allowing you to twist the motor / k frame etc).

Another thing i did was on the same side that the engine mount is lined up, line up at least one of the k frame bolts to the chassis and again semi tighten.

You may need to twist the k-frame a bit to line up the second engine mount, but if you've gotten one kframe mounting bolt lined up, it'll make the job much easier.

Hope that offers some assistance for anyone curious about the job.
As stated earlier, this is not the only way to do it, its just how i did it. :)

Enjoy!

[BOMI]

Good pics there Stu!

On a side note, how shit is it that holden design a car that you have to take the friggin motor out to put in a front sway bar!!!!


Troy :)

[Aeron]

Good pics there Stu!

On a side note, how shit is it that holden design a car that you have to take the friggin motor out to put in a front sway bar!!!!


Troy :)

Yeh, and the VE is the same :(

DOH!!

[pascal]

:sucks:

You guys should come back to the good ol days of the VL's. 10 min, old one out and new one is in. :woot:

It may be primative technology, but its simple and it works.

[Pulse Red]

Digging up an old thread. I am looking at the Whiteline adjustable Sway bars for my Monaro. Has anyone on here added these to a Series III Monaro? If you have how would you rate the mod? How big are the stock swaybars? I assume it is worth the extra for the adjustable versions?

30mm front and 18mm rear is what Whiteline recommended to me. Is there anything else you need to buy when adding front and rear swaybars? Fitment wont be an issue considering the engine will be out of the car :)

cheers

[VooDoo]

Mine were added to a GTO monaro but i had all the springs, shocks changed too. For the minimal cost id do it again. Rear's are easy to fit but fronts a bitch. Talk to Luke @ Wholesale Suspension. Stock they are 16mm rear, 24mm front (from memory) Upgrade is 20mm rear and 32mm front. The NON-Adjustable ones hare stiffer than the Adjustables which really dont do much.

[Pulse Red]

Thanks VooDoo, that is great info. I am surprised to hear that the adjustable bars are no good!

[VooDoo]

Not no good, just no real point as the adjusting points are close together and really dont make much differance at all. The non-adjustable ones are bigger diameter and according to Luke, do the job better. Nothing wrong with the adjustables as a product, just dont do anything better than the non-adjustables and cost more.