View Full Version : HOW TO: Brake Pad and Rotor change
PLEASE READ
It should be noted that I am not a qualified mechanic, the following “how to” is how I do the specific mechanical services.
Any work done by you will void the warranty on most parts that one can put onto a car.
All care has been taken to provide accurate and safe procedures for removing and Changing Disc Rotors and Pads.
Track chat and myself accept no responsibility for damage and or injury that may arise as a result of you carrying out these mechanical repairs on your car after viewing this “how to”
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Brake Rotor and Pad replacement This guide can be used for most modern vehicles, not just Holden C'dores.
In my opinions brakes are the single most important bit of equipment on any car.
With this in mind they should receive more than their fare share of attention when it comes to maintenance and regular driver inspections.
Brake pads and rotors will require replacement at many and varying intervals depending on ones driving style and the type of car they drive.
It could be said that heavier cars go through brakes faster as they are heavier and require more effort by the brake pads and rotors to stop the vehicle. BUT, there is always a but. Bigger cars have bigger brakes so do they wear out at the same as smaller cars? Who’s knows, we’ll save that for another thread. :lmao:
So when do pads need replacing? Well at a set amount of kilometres or when deemed to have not enough pad left to allow safe braking.
Rotors, when do they need to be replaced? Well when they have been machined (to remove brake shudder or cracks) and they become to thin as in their thickness is below the safe "mm" measurement deemed by the manufacturer.
I needed to replace both pad and rotors and thus thought “Ill do a how to”
I have done the following procedure about 4 times (in 12 years) now when it comes to Rotors and more when it comes to pads.
For this replacement I purchased from Repco Wagga some DBA standard diameter slotted Rotors, the model below what Ill be replacing, DBA 4000 6x6 Wiper slots (now stuffed)
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_027.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_028.jpg
And in the pad department I purchased some Bendix Ultimates (Police version) These are the ones used on police cars and are very different in appearance to the standard Ultimates, sorry no pic. Needless to say the Police version has more pad surface area then the other pad.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_040.jpg
The tools you’ll need for this job are seen in the below pic, I forgot to put the car stand in there, you’ll need that.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_047.jpg
*Wheel brace
*Trolley Jack
*Car stand (not pictured)
*14mm and 19mm Spanner
*Adjustable spanner
*G Clamp
So, first things first. Don’t work on brakes after you have just driven as they will be hot. Leave the brakes to cool for at least an hour.
Place the hand brake on and put the car in P or 1st gear, also chock both sides of one of the rear wheels.
Once you have done this place your trolley jack under the front of the car in the manufacturers recommended jacking point. Take up the slack on the jack till the car moves slightly.
Then move to your first from wheel, in this case the left, loosen off each wheel nut half a turn.
Now move back to the jack and raise the car, when the wheel and tyre comes of the ground place a car stand under the car and lower the car very gently onto that stand.
Now lower the jack so that it moves away from the car about 2 cm, this will leave your jack in the correct spot should the stand fail. DO NOT leave the jack holding the full weight of the car, this is not good for trolley jacks.
Now that the wheel is off the ground and the nuts are loose you can take the nuts off and remove the wheel. Once you have done this place the wheel under the car next to the car stand, this is another fail safe in case the stand or jack fails.
Note there are no photos on how to remove the wheel as if you need photos to do this you should not be attempting to replace your brake pads/rotors :lmao:
Ok so the wheel is off, turn the steering wheel to the right. For Holden C’dores these gives you good access to the brake calliper, this could be different for other cars.
Now that the wheel is all the way to the right take up a 14mm spanner and remove the nut as pictured
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_016.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_016.jpg)
It should be noted that before you do this you should have a very good look at the brake set up to work out how it all works and how it all is “meant” to be :)
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_017.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_017.jpg)
Once the nut is removed your can lift the brake calliper up and remove the old pads.
See photo.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_018.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_018.jpg)
As you take the old pads out be careful that you do not loose or damage the little metal “guides” well that’s what I call them. Make sure they are put to one side. Im pointing to them in the 3rd pic below.
See photo.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_019.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_020.jpg
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_021.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_022.jpg
LARGE PIC'S HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_019.jpg) -- HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_020.jpg) -- HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_021.jpg) -- AND HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_022.jpg)
Now that the old pads are out take up your 19mm spanner and proceed to remove the two bolts that hold the calliper assembly onto the lower part of the wheel strut. These bolts are on very tight and you will need some good old elbow grease to get them out.
See photo.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_023.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_024.jpg
LARGE PICS HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_023.jpg) AND HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_024.jpg)
Now that those two bolts are out you can freely lift the calliper up and off. I place it on the sway bar as pictured. Now you can take the Rotor off the car.
See photo
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_025.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_026.jpg
LARGE PICS HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_025.jpg) AND HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_026.jpg)
ROTOR REMOVAL
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_031.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_032.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_031.jpg) HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_032.jpg)
Notice the surface cracking on my the old Rotor "Stuffed"
At this stage if you wish you can spray some brake cleaner around the calliper and the surrounding areas and give them a light scrub with a wire brush. Be carfull of the rubber boots around the brake pistons and not to damage them.
Also Spin your hub and have a good look at it for damage or leaks. If it wiggles in and out or up and down your wheel bearing is stuffed and you should take the car to a mechanic after you finish your brakes.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_035.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_034.jpg
LARGE PICS HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_035.jpg) AND HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_034.jpg)
Also check your wheel studs, the “bolt” part on the hub where the rotor then wheel slide onto. If they are damaged or cracked take your car to a mechanic after you finish replacing the pads and Rotor.
Now as I have new Rotors they need to be wiped down with brake cleaner to remove any surface contaminates such as grease or oil that would be detrimental to the functioning of the brakes as a whole.
I didn’t have brake cleaner so I used metho, I have used it before and it brings off the gunk, see the pic with the dirty paper towel. Once you have cleaned down your new rotor you should closely inspect it for damage or cracks.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_030.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_029.jpg
LARGE PICS HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_030.jpg) AND HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_029.jpg)
Now that your happy its all good you can place it onto the wheel hub, just line up the stud holes with the studs and bobs your uncle.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_036.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_037.jpg
LARGE PICS HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_036.jpg) AND HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_037.jpg)
The next thing to do is to place the calliper back onto the rotor and attach it with the two large bolts.
See photo
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_038.jpghttp://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_039.jpg
LARGE PICS HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_038.jpg) AND HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_039.jpg)
Next up, pads, take your pad and slide them into position (reverse order of removal). Make sure that you have put the two little “guides” back into there original position before you try to put the pads on.
Now come the tricky and sometimes frustrating part of the whole process.
You see, when you took the old pads out they were say only 5mm thick, the new pads are now say 10mm thick and wont fit between the pistons and as they will be two close together. To get the brake pistons which are the two cylindrical parts sticking out of the calliper with rubber boots on them, you will need a G clamp.
Place the old pad over the piston to protect them from the G clap and then attach the clamp, wind the clamp in and you will see the pistons move into the calliper and thus allowing more room to fit the calliper over the new pad and rotor. If this does not work you can do each piston one at a time. Compress the first piston with the clamp, then remove the clamp and lower the calliper over the pads, place the first piston over the pads then take the G clamp and compress the last piston, then slide it over the remainder of the pad, and there you have it. THIS IS THE HARDEST PART--- HAVE PATIENTS
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_042.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_042.jpg)
Now that you have the calliper back over the pads place the small 14mm bolt back into the lower part of the Calliper assembly and tighten using the adjustable spanner and 14mm spanner.
See photo
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_043.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_043.jpg)
Now that’s almost it.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_044.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_044.jpg)
Check and re check every thing you have just done, especially the tightening of the bolts you took off. I don’t have the torque settings but lets just say that I do them up tight, not spastic monkey tight but tight. Gillian I need a torque wrench for my birthday!! :) :)
Once you are happy you can place the wheel back on and tighten it on by following the tightening pattern of a 5 pointed star. This guarantees that the nuts are tightened evenly.
Ok so that’s one Rotor and Pad, move to the front left wheel and repeat the process.
Ok so now you have both front wheels done you need to take the car for a test drive so you can make sure you haven’t botched the job and so, more importantly you can “Bed” the pad’s in. This is very important process as it ensure a good bond between the pad and rotor. Why?
Well both the pad and the rotor are new and thus don’t have a smooth surface so they need a chance to “join” so to speak, this gives as much surface area contact as possible and in turn gives as maximum braking.
If you can describe bedding in pad and rotors please, I have no probs if you want to put your spin on it.
Anyway, how do I “Bed in" pads and Rotors.
Firstly the first time I use the brakes I make sure that its not with another car, house or something hard in front of the car, just in case :eek:
I drive at 60KM/H then brake to 10KM/H making sure I dont stop.
The first time you brake with Slotted Rotors they will make a small purring or vibratting "Grrrrrrr" sound, this is normal.
Do this 4 or 5 times.
Now drive at 80KM/H and do the same thing 4 or 5 times. Make sure you don’t stop.
Now 100KM/h two times only, remember don’t come to a complete stop.
Below is the rotor after being bedded in, note the fine lines from the pad bitting into the Rotor, both the Pad and Rotor have maximum contact with each other.
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Bomi_prod_046.jpg
LARGE PIC HERE (http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/Bomi_prod_046.jpg)
Now your brakes should be “Bedded” in and you should notice an immediate improvement in brake response and your braking distance should be shorter, mine was.
Happy and safe motoring. :)
DaveHAT
30-12-2006, 06:48 PM
Nice one Major Success, great work indeed and equally excellent write up. :bow:
If we keep this up we should soon be able to market the trackchat "How To" manual for LS1's and give some competition to Gregorys manuals.:)
Cheers Dave, you left me with a great standard to aim for man :thumbs:
Troy :)
highlander_69r
05-01-2007, 04:34 PM
how long did u get out of the last set of discs bomi???
Id say about 10 000 KM's plus and 3 track days.
Got them machined twice, the left rotor had to be machined more each time due to being scored by the pads. They were getting to thin basicaly.
They were good IMHO.
Troy :)
Hethro87
05-01-2007, 05:06 PM
Another cracking write up Troy. Very very impressed!
Me and Sam are changing my pads to the Bendix Ultimates next week too - plus im changing my fluid so it'll be interesting to see how that goes.
Gotta get cracking on my DIY which is alot less complicated! :up2sum:
Hethro
Brock05
09-01-2007, 08:17 PM
Hey Troy , Excellent write up mate good job :) . So whats next mate keep it up:flame:
Thanks Alex and Gene :thumbs:
Hey Geneo, glad you finaly posted up after the big move.
Thought you'd got lost in the "Patch" and couldnt get home :lmao:
Troy :)
HSVSV6
04-07-2007, 01:18 PM
that is a good right up only one thing.the discolouration on the disc is pretty bad for just bedding in gave it a hard time i would say.Must be something about those 6x6 dba discs i replaced a set here back bout one month ago and where cracked bad with surface cracking also but like 2mm wide from hat to almost outer edge he had ultimates to.
DaveHAT
05-07-2007, 08:38 AM
Just re-reading (and not shit picking) but worth noting ... pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper with the bleed nipples closed MAY cause possible damage to the brake master cylindar. :)
I only mention this because I have done it myself. :headbang: Another of motorings expensive lessons.
Exerting backwards pressure on the brake master cylindar can lead to the seals rupturing and the master cylindar collapsing and losing pressure (i.e. no brake pedal)
This will of course depend on the age and condition of the master cylindar and rubber seals but still worth noting. :yep:
Werd ... now where is my hat? :confused:
hsvredsled
05-07-2007, 11:26 AM
Just re-reading (and not shit picking) but worth noting ... pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper with the bleed nipples closed MAY cause possible damage to the brake master cylindar. :)
I only mention this because I have done it myself. :headbang: Another of motorings expensive lessons.
Exerting backwards pressure on the brake master cylindar can lead to the seals rupturing and the master cylindar collapsing and losing pressure (i.e. no brake pedal)
This will of course depend on the age and condition of the master cylindar and rubber seals but still worth noting. :yep:
Werd ... now where is my hat? :confused:
I was thinking along similar lines. Although I have never done the brakes on my current car, on the various array of crappy cars I have changed pads on, I always made sure I 'popped' the top up resevoir in the engine bay to facilitate the oil being pushed back through the system.
Dunno where I was taught this or if needed. It made sense.
HSVSV6
05-07-2007, 03:16 PM
easy thing to do if you worried about it is put your bleed bottle on the caliper crack the bleeder then push them back.just make sure it submerged in fluid though otherwise youll get air in the system
bsbozzy
20-09-2009, 03:38 PM
Nice write up. I just tried to remove the rotor and the damn thing wouldnt budge. I read somewhere that you shouldnt hit it with a hammer as it may damage the hub, but I tried it anyway and it did nothing. Tried loosening it with WD40, cleaned what i could with brake cleaner and a wire brush, tried a piece of wood and the hammer, nothing, i didnt give it a real hard wack, i dont need to go through hub replacement again....
Any ideas?
Try placing a bit of wood on the rotor then tapping it evenly and firmly all the way around the rotor, you can hit it hard it wont hurt it, make sure you hit the wood though.
Troy :)
bsbozzy
26-10-2009, 02:52 PM
I tried that, luckily someone over on LS1 knew how to do it. Theres 3 holes in the rotor which you use, basically find some bolts that fit and slowly screw them into the holes evenly unti the rotor pops off.
Gave the hub a good scrub and clean with a stell brush and some brake cleaner, I thought of painting the hubs but couldnt really be bothered.
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