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View Full Version : Check your nuts (especially if they are alloy)


35R
21-04-2010, 07:38 AM
I had to get some open wheel nuts (due to running longer studs) and i've been using ALLOY ones. I am not running then for weight saving (i just picked up what was readily available).

Anyway i've tried a few different nuts but they all seem to have issues; the thread on the inside of the nut just seems to wear away, pretty quickly. Until eventually i found a nut failed completely (when putting it on thank god) it was just spinning on the stud! At a recent practice day someone running the same nuts actually lost a wheel on the track, scary.

So my questions are

1. Have you guys noticed the same with alloy nuts? How often do you replace them.

2. What should we be running, steel, alloy, titanium? What are you guys running. Anyone know where i can buy some quality ones?

If you are running some alloy ones, check them out, make sure the thread looks good. Replace them if they look dodgy! (replaced mine three times thus far).

GTS Listy
21-04-2010, 08:46 AM
I had to get some open wheel nuts (due to running longer studs) and i've been using ALLOY ones. I am not running then for weight saving (i just picked up what was readily available).

Anyway i've tried a few different nuts but they all seem to have issues; the thread on the inside of the nut just seems to wear away, pretty quickly. Until eventually i found a nut failed completely (when putting it on thank god) it was just spinning on the stud! At a recent practice day someone running the same nuts actually lost a wheel on the track, scary.

So my questions are

1. Have you guys noticed the same with alloy nuts? How often do you replace them.

2. What should we be running, steel, alloy, titanium? What are you guys running. Anyone know where i can buy some quality ones?

If you are running some alloy ones, check them out, make sure the thread looks good. Replace them if they look dodgy! (replaced mine three times thus far).

Can not help but the same mob I sent the link about the exhaust did tititian nuts too. Might be an option.
I use the the stock ones that came with the car.

VYII
21-04-2010, 03:55 PM
Where is the logic of using alloy for wheel nuts?
Steel Studs will eat the threads in quick time. Especially if you get a bit to over zealous with the breaker bar when fitting them.

Kyle
21-04-2010, 04:19 PM
Too much power in that wrench? :)

Steel nuts I guess are the go, I'm going to go check the wrx now thanks for the headsup duncan

35R
21-04-2010, 05:09 PM
Where is the logic of using alloy for wheel nuts?
Steel Studs will eat the threads in quick time. Especially if you get a bit to over zealous with the breaker bar when fitting them.

dunno about the logic (probably weight saving) but that's what all the race shops seem to be selling to us ricers. I have been torque wrenching my latest set of nuts it doesnt seemt o help really. alloy nuts = crap i am thinking

RUN41T
21-04-2010, 05:35 PM
Good for .2 at WSID? :burnout:

Hi Tensile steel nuts FTW

I wonder what the legality is on Allou wheel nuts?

Munroman
21-04-2010, 05:45 PM
Good. Another reason to check my nuts.

That's a bit scary mate

I have been using alloy Rays Engineering nuts for a couple of years. Careful when we fit them and oil the inners occasionally.

They have been on and off so many times the annodising is gone

I will be extra careful.

Thanks and will be subscribing

choppo
21-04-2010, 06:51 PM
Where is the logic of using alloy for wheel nuts?

It would be to do with sprung/un-sprung weight for sure. It's one of those micro milli silly things that if i was selling titanium wheel nuts for $1000 id be telling ya they reduce the wheel weight by a whole 2.00564578 grams and that will gain you seconds over a lap ;)

*im no expert* but for the Holden guys, get genuine wheel nuts. Then throw em out after a couple dozen 'wheel on's-n-off's' if your real keen.
Also remember (not for Dunc as he is using for different purpose) a long wheel stud aint stronger. You only need 1mm of thread hanging out the end of a nut i.e. the diameter of the bolt/stud being engaged by the nut.

If your studs are longer than you need (see above), the Titanium $1000 wheel nuts i'd sell you are wasted as you carry more weight in excess steel stud than you save in wheel nut weight. It's a mute point.

Well done Dunc pointing it out, dont use Al. wheel nuts nor aftermarket ones particularly for the road, unless they are serious well engineered ones.

EDIT: also be careful of expansion differential on Al wheel nuts vs. steel studs. It gets hot down there

35R
31-05-2010, 10:31 AM
Hi guys,

Well i finally wandered across these

http://www.forrestfamily.com.au/duncan/misc/DSCF0007.jpg

I've used them for about a dozen wheel changes and they still look new (in terms of the thread). I tried a few different options, including those nasty "D1" alloy ones; well they stretched after even one wheel change (at 108Nm) they were JUNK. These ones in pic above are the business if you want alloy. Apparently made fom 7075 alloy, i dont think a cat could scratch them :) $100/set. Not cheap but nowhere near the $400 price for rays or project Mu alternatives. These get my vote.

35R
22-07-2010, 09:43 PM
So anyway here's an update on the stronger set i have been using (for a few months). The cheapie sets (red ones in pic below) seemed to stretch on the first use, and thereafter they were really difficult to get off (as thread was stretched) so even after a few uses they were just rooted, the thread was chewed out. I've used the new set (bronze colour in pics below) set for longer than the red ones, yet have a look at the difference in condition below:

http://forrestfamily.com.au/duncan/GTR/wheelnuts/P1010055.jpg

Some more pics

http://www.forrestfamily.com.au/duncan/GTR...ts/P1010072.jpg
http://www.forrestfamily.com.au/duncan/GTR...ts/P1010077.jpg

There was only about $20 difference is the cost for each set. The bronze ones (about $100/set) are obviously much better/stronger/harder. I'll be sticking with these, great product, decent price.

taztassio
22-07-2010, 09:54 PM
most alloy wheel nuts are meant to be almost single use....

35R
23-07-2010, 06:02 AM
most alloy wheel nuts are meant to be almost single use....

that's ridiculous.

anyway the two wheel nuts in my pics are claimed to be made from the same alloy. Either there is something (really negative) to be said for the red annodisation process, or one of these parts is not what they say it is.

BlueTME
23-07-2010, 07:03 AM
This has been an issue for me as well, I upgraded to these

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/other_nut_lock.php

from Rays Duranuts because they kept coming loose when put on cold then heated and even when retensioned several times a day.

I wanted these

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/other_nut_racing.php

because they have a floating head making tensioning more consistent, they are also narrow making wheel damage from socket less likely.

35R
23-07-2010, 07:09 AM
I would have liked those floating head ones too, but they are $390/set!

BlueTME
23-07-2010, 07:22 AM
That said the super 7's have never come loose yet, but they are no where near as light as the Ray's either.

kazekage
25-07-2010, 06:54 PM
maybe im missing something...

Wheel nuts are 2 bucks each. (for standard ones)

Even if they get worn to shreds within a month. Buy new ones.

My wheel studs get worn down before my nuts. >.>

VooDoo
25-07-2010, 07:21 PM
This is what happens when someone else plays with your nuts and over-tightens them, stretching the studs. The wheel came off @ 110kmh towing a trailer and they had 2 kids in the car. Lucky the driver was a trucky and hit the trailers elec brakes but they still ended up in the bush on the wrong side of the road.

http://www.oz8.org/gallery/albums/york/DSC_0005.sized.jpg


We never found the wheel either :(

choppo
02-09-2010, 08:17 AM
Quick update.... 1st time ive actually seen it happen but one of my mates snapped all 5 studs mid race at Wakefield last weekend. New VY Crommie.

Using spacers on the front without the load on the centrebore, the front left completely snapped off just after rounding the top of WP. Dragged to a stop inside track at the fishhook with the front wheel jambed not very nicely under the front end.

Subsequently it was revealed that earlier in the weekend one stud had already broken and was replaced, not understanding the 'signal' and second chance they were given, they continued on to a not very nice ending.

So there ya go, it does happen on Crommies :sigh: