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BOMI
21-10-2006, 05:43 PM
Drag racing, the 1/4 mile, 400 odd metres of tarmac and 10 to 15 seconds of adrenalin.

For many, putting your street car into a street meet or test n tune event is daunting, but it need not be. All you need is just a little bit of knowledge, which we will try to pass on now.

The quarter mile is the yard stick by which many many cars performance is measured. So when it comes to testing out you and your cars ability’s the quarter is great fun and easy.

First things first, your car & pre race prep before you leave for the track.

If you drive a new car you shouldn’t have to do much other then turn up, get scrutineered and then race, but you should still check a few things.

1. Check your engine oil level. If you are close to a service interval then I personally wouldn’t go to the track until I had an oil change. Your engine oil level should be at the full mark on the dipstick or very close. Running 500ml more oil than is recommended will help to eliminate oil surge issues created by oil running to the rear of the sump when under hard acceleration. An oil change costs all of $100 if you can DIY, which is really cheap insurance when you consider the cost of a replacement motor.

2. Check your coolant level, your car will get hot waiting in the staging lanes (Ill explain them later), if it is low then top it up with the same type of coolant that the manufacturer recommends.

3. If you drive an automatic then check the transmission fluid level & as above if its low then top up with the recommended fluid.

4. Tyres, if you have bugger all tread left on your tyres then chances are when you have done 4 or 5 passes on the 1/4 mile you will have little to no tread to get home with legally & more importantly safely. Burnouts will be covered later.

5. Tyre pressures: There is some conjecture over what is the "best" tyre pressure to run your rear tyres at. This will also vary depending on whether you are using day to day street tyres or purpose built track tyres such as semi-competition's or Mickey Thompson street radials. As most 1st timers tend to run on their daily used street tyres, as small drop in air pressure to around 20-22psi can help improve traction away from the start line thus increasing the size of the tyres contact patch or the tyre footprint that has contact with the track at launch.

Ok, now you have checked your car over with the basics you can now leave for the track. Before you leave make sure you have your helmet. We have seen many a frustrated racer at the track who has, in the rush to check his or her car, forgotten their helmet. Your helmet should be in good nick with the ADR sticker intact on the back of the helmet. The liner / chin strap must be in good condition.
Whilst you are grabbing your helmet make sure you are wearing enclosed shoes and a long sleeve shirt or jacket as you need these to race.

Now you can leave for the track!!

Once at the track and paid up you should go and register or sign in. Once you have done this you need to get your car scrutineered. For new cars this takes about 1 minute. The scrutineer will get you to pop your bonnet, where he or she will check the security of your battery and make sure that you have no dodgy duct tape type home mods. They will then check your helmet, enclosed shoes and long sleeves, put a sticker on your windscreen as well as a staging lane number. This number is the lane that you must stage in all day. That’s it, your ready to line up in the staging lanes.

Now tracks differ slightly but there are generally 4 to 6 staging lanes to line different classes of cars and bikes up in.

So move into your staging lane and wait, pop your bonnet to help cool the engine. A cooler engine helps the cars PCM (computer) to let the car make more power safely. Leave your bonnet up until the last moment, about 3 cars left in front of you, to get maximum air flow and cooling of the engine.

The cars start moving forward and you hear the people in front of you doing burnouts and then launching down the 1/4, your heart pounds with adrenalin and you get a little nervous. There is nothing to worry about. Your just about to spin your tyres at over 140 km/h in a burnout and then launch your car down 400 meters of tarmac at 160kmh plus. Its great fun!

You have now moved to the first place in the staging lane and the marshal in charge of the lane has ticked a mark on your windscreen sticker and told you to move either to the left or right side or the track, the side you will race on. From here you will move forward to a staging box, marked on the ground with white paint. The car in front of you will be doing its pre launch burnout. Once it has done this it will get called forward to the start line. They will launch & the next marshal, the burnout marshal, will call you forward for your burnout.

Now comes your turn, you are 40 seconds from your first run down the 1/4 mile.

Stress less! The marshal will call you and the car in the opposite lane forward & guide you onto a spot on the burnout line where there is a water patch to do your burnout in. The water allows easy loss of traction and helps protect your diff & axles. If you have traction control turn it off as this will make for an embarrassing result, trust us, some of us have been there. If you are an Auto driver leave your foot on the brake & look for the marshals signal to tell you to commence your burnout.

When he or she gives you the signal to start your burnout, Auto drivers, place your left foot on the brake & place your right foot to the floor on the accelerator. Your rear wheels will begin to spin, now take your left foot off the brake slowly & let the car move forward. Manual drivers, give your car about 3500 RPM and pop the clutch. Looking in your side view mirror you should see smoke from your tyres. Now on street tyres you don’t want to do a big burn out, just enough to clear the water off your tyres. However if you like a good smoke show & have new tyres waiting at home then go for it, smoke em’ up, the crowd will love it. As soon as you see smoke you should back right off & drive forward slowly to the start line.

http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/smokin_ET_s1.jpg

Click here to see a pre launch burnout in a Automatic (Small 850 KB)
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/SS_at_WSID_1.AVI

Now this is where you must be diligent as when you approach the start line you will see the Christmas tree.

It has two white lights on top. These are the staging lights. As you move forward to the white line on the track the first white light will come on this means you are now pre staged, move forward very slowly until the second light comes on. This indicates that you are staged at the start line in what’s known as a shallow stage. If you move forward again the first white light will go out this indicates that you are now deep staged & very close to going over the start line and have to reverse up and stage again.

http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/tree.jpg


All sounds complicated, nahhhh, just shallow stage every time & you’ll have no worries. That’s what we always do. Now that you are staged you just have to wait for the car in the lane next to you to stage. Once you are both ready there will generally be a 3 to 5 second pause & the marshal controlling the launch will initiate the Christmas tree & off you go.

Lets have a look at the Christmas tree.

The tree consists of the staging lights as previously mentioned.

Next are 3 amber lights, they are the first to light up and are .4 of a second apart, then we have the green light and lastly the red light. If you leave before the green light the red will appear and you have automatically lost the race. However the timer still starts when you car leaves the start line and your time will be accurate for the ? mile.

NOTE As you get more experienced you will learn that you can actually launch on the last amber light with out red lighting. This is due to your RT (Reaction Time) & the time it takes for your car to move forward and start the timer.

http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/FD.jpg http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/Launch_street_T_Cool.jpg

Now that you have seen the green, it's time to floor it. There are different ways to launch for each type of transmission, the best way to start is launching just like you are at traffic lights and in a hurry to get somewhere, obeying the speed limit of course. Keep your car straight down the track. Keep an eye on the car in the other lane if they are in front of you, you don't want to just stare straight down the track with tunnel vision, why? Well if the other car has a mechanical failure or gets out of shape they could end up on your side of the track and KAPOW!! So keep an eye out, if the other car gets loose back off & brake. Not to freak you out but some cars do get loose & hit the wall on the 1/4 mile so better to be safe then sorry. Now as you rocket down the track and cross the finish line back off and gently brake, go back a gear or two and brake a little harder, by this time you are at the end of the track and will be going slow enough to make a right turn onto the return road. Before you turn make sure that you are not going to turn into the car next to you. Different tracks have different rules for which lane has right of way but generally it’s the inside lane to the turn.

Make your way back up the return road obeying the speed limit. You will go back past the start line but well out of the way of it. From there you will pass a point where you will get your time slip that has your ET (Elapsed Time) on it as well as a whole host of other times. We will look at that in another thread.

So there you go, you have just had your first taste of drag racing, be careful its very addictive & great fun.


Regards

The Track Chat team

T_Kiwi
16-03-2007, 06:42 AM
bomi that is awesome, i really needed to read something like this:) i especially love this quote:)


The cars start moving forward and you hear the people in front of you doing burnouts and then launching down the ?, your heart pounds with adrenalin and you get a little nervous. There is nothing to worry about. Your just about to spin your tyres at over 140 km/h in a burnout and then launch your car down 400 meters of tarmac at 160kmh plus. Its great fun!

555
16-03-2007, 09:37 AM
Excellent writeup mate, wish I could have read this before I did my first ever launch. Very useful indeed thanks for taking the time to get it all down.

RedVYIISS
16-03-2007, 12:10 PM
just a couple of other things,

1 Traction Control; Off
2 For auto drivers (A4), select 3rd gear and leave it there for both the burnout and the run down the quarter.
3 Power Mode; On

T_Kiwi
16-03-2007, 01:21 PM
just a couple of other things,

1 Traction Control; Off
2 For auto drivers (A4), select 3rd gear and leave it there for both the burnout and the run down the quarter.
3 Power Mode; On


dosnt it start in 1st weather or not you have it in 3rd?

Black VESSV
16-03-2007, 02:19 PM
dosnt it start in 1st weather or not you have it in 3rd?

Something to do with it going to 4th which is an overdrive (?) or something rather than what gear you start in. Anyway very bad for the box.

T_Kiwi
16-03-2007, 02:41 PM
Something to do with it going to 4th which is an overdrive (?) or something rather than what gear you start in. Anyway very bad for the box.


whats bad for the box? 3rd or going to 4th?

highlander_69r
16-03-2007, 02:42 PM
good write up bomi.

the only problem is u get addicted and fast is never fast enough:headbang:

veewhytu
17-03-2007, 07:26 AM
whats bad for the box? 3rd or going to 4th?

Hitting 4th gear in a burnout is a sure fire way of seriously reducing the life span of an a4....click it in 3rd when staging and keep it there until you're across the traps, then when you're off the throttle shift up into 4th and coast whilst appyling brakes.

Well, thats how i do it anyway :)

Nice write up btw Bomi!

BOMI
19-03-2007, 08:39 PM
I put it into 2 and leave it there till "staged".

I think I need "D" or 4th as I run outa revs. Its been that long since I have run the 1/4 mile.

Thanks for the comments fellas, glad you liked it, the rest of the TC team had "some" :whip: (mainly spelling) :lmao: "Input"

Bring on the Winter drag day, WDD.


Troy :)

RedVYIISS
20-03-2007, 05:07 AM
I think I need "D" or 4th as I run outa revs. Its been that long since I have run the 1/4 mile.


You wont run out of revs in 3rd gear down the quarter!

Mine, with 3.46 diff traps at 200 km/hr (just under 125 mph). In 3rd gear, thats 5537 rpm assuming no converter slip. I could get away with a 3.73 diff and not run out of revs.

What diff ratio do you run? Tell me that and your trap speed and I'll tell you what revs you're pulling over the line. BTW, with a bolt on car, you wont run out of revs in 3rd gear with a 4.11 diff.

BOMI
20-03-2007, 11:57 AM
3.73 Gears Al.

And I have a CAM so that rules me outa the bolt on area.

My trap speeds ATM are 114.5 MPH, no stally.

I never actualy paid any attention to what my RPM is at the finish line.


Cheers,

Troy :)

RedVYIISS
20-03-2007, 04:36 PM
3.73 Gears Al.
My trap speeds ATM are 114.5 MPH, no stally.


3rd gear, exactly 5,500 rpm assuming zero converter slip.

apoc585
20-03-2007, 06:45 PM
10-15 seconds at 160km/h?? i wish:p haha good post though!! i like

RedVYIISS
21-03-2007, 04:51 AM
apoc, mine does 160 km/hr at half track :yep:

T_Kiwi
21-03-2007, 04:56 AM
any idea what my car MAY pull downt the 1/4?

RedVYIISS
21-03-2007, 05:07 AM
should be good for mid 10's or better. Let us know what power it makes once tuned.

Weight is a big factor in these cars and it's quite easy to pull a lot of weight out. Of course getting the first 60 foot right also has a big bearing on what your final et is.

Mine's run 11.1 at 1,777 kg (ie full weight). With a decent 60 ft, a decent driver and decent traction mine should run sub 11 seconds full weight.

T_Kiwi
21-03-2007, 05:14 AM
i will do, i cant wait to give it a run.

veewhytu
21-03-2007, 05:27 PM
T Kiwi, as Al said mid 10s should be on the cards for you... if you can get it to hook up...you'll be needing a cage regardless i reackon :up2sum:

Bomi ive run 124mph with 3.9 gears...not optimum, i was crossing the line @ over 6800rpm :shock: , bit too much for a stock bottom end to do very often , ill be swapping to 3.7s which i think will be perfect for that mph :)

RedVYIISS
22-03-2007, 05:41 AM
Has anyone logged a run down the quarter in an A4?

If yes, I'd be interested in knowing your trap speed, tyre type, diff ratio, logged rpm and type of converter. I've a spreadsheet that I've developed that works out speed at various engine rpm's with different diff ratio's. I'd like to add a field where converter slip % can be added to make the calculated engine rpm more accurate.

T_Kiwi
22-03-2007, 01:52 PM
Has anyone logged a run down the quarter in an A4?

If yes, I'd be interested in knowing your trap speed, tyre type, diff ratio, logged rpm and type of converter. I've a spreadsheet that I've developed that works out speed at various engine rpm's with different diff ratio's. I'd like to add a field where converter slip % can be added to make the calculated engine rpm more accurate.


i will be soon, and you may even be there for it:)

Bermudablue
22-03-2007, 02:57 PM
apoc, mine does 160 km/hr at half track :yep:

:shock: Rub it in Al:) Hopefully i'll be doing a bit more than that past the traps

RedVYIISS
23-03-2007, 07:07 AM
Bermuda,

The first time I took RedVYIISS to the track I got 10 runs in on a Wed night. The last run was my only sub 14 sec run (13.979), and not once did I crack 160 km/hr! Trap speed didn't mean much to me then, but I can tell you now that running sub 14 secs put a 10 foot wide smile on my face!

The car now runs faster at the 660 ft mark than it ran at the 1320 foot mark first time I took it to the track!

Having said that, it's still nowhere near its potential as a quarter miler (and will never be) as it's not set up to run quick quarter miles (not that it's slow!).

It's set up as a 'tough' street car, and the suspension is setup more like a circuit car than a 1/4 mile track car. If I was concerned about 1/4 mile times:
it would have a 3.7 rather than 3.46 diff
would have 90/10 front shocks rather than the stiff adjustables
would have softer front springs rather than the stiff lows
would run lightweigh front runners rather than my street tyres that I run on the front
would run 15" slicks on lightweight wheels rather than the 16" drag radials I currently run on heavy 16 x 8 alloys
the gearbox would be a T400 rather than the 'built' 4L60e
would run a 'loose' 4000 rpm converter rather than the 'tight' 3000 converter
would run FE2 rear springs with airbags rather than King Lows
wouldn't be carrying the (heavy) front and rear adjustable swaybars

With those changes:
a) it would be quicker down the quarter, and
b) it would have been cheaper to do than the current setup!

As you can see, it all depends on what you want out of a car.

PS, and if you know where you want to go, before you start modding, there's money to be saved along the way!

T_Kiwi
23-03-2007, 07:14 AM
what sort of power are you putting through your trans red?

RedVYIISS
23-03-2007, 08:25 AM
what sort of power are you putting through your trans red?

At 10 PSI it'd be over 600 Hp (450 kW).

On 10PSI it made 375 rwkW (502.5 Hp) on CHE's dyno through the 3000 rpm converter, on Sonny's dyno it made 382 rwkW through the standard converter.

At last weeks CHE dyno day it made 355 rwkW at 8.5 PSI boost.

T_Kiwi
23-03-2007, 04:52 PM
and your box is holding up ok?

RedVYIISS
24-03-2007, 08:21 AM
the rebuilt box is (touches wood!).... standard box lasted almost 20,000 km though, I was astonished at how well it held up (though it had trans cooler, fresh oil etc so I did everything possible to extend its life)

T_Kiwi
24-03-2007, 02:33 PM
the rebuilt box is (touches wood!).... standard box lasted almost 20,000 km though, I was astonished at how well it held up (though it had trans cooler, fresh oil etc so I did everything possible to extend its life)

awesome, sounds good man. gonna try and preserve mine too. I started running her in today and i think a nex box will be on the cards after the ls1 nats, the torque is really good and only hitting 1/4 to 1/2 throttle atm

CalaisRider
21-01-2008, 06:27 PM
3rd gear, exactly 5,500 rpm assuming zero converter slip.

Hey Red, do one more please.

Mine is a VE Calais-V with A6 obvoious; As of last Friday I have reset the shift points and in two weeks a further diff change occurs to 4.11:

ATM

I have 3.7 diff gears (stock is 2.92)
255/35/20 tyres

Shift points are now set to 6,700 rpm for Normal Auto; and 7,000 for Sport Shift mode; and 7,200 Rev Limiter. Yep it has the supporting mods for these - and the revs and the dyno chart reflects this as optimal for where the cam kicks in and drops off:)

ATM it spins the rears in 1st and 2nd nicely even with top shelf tyres. Hopeing 4.11s will create a Three Gear spinner for the A6 and LSD.

It will never be a world beater nor big banger though - pretty fast K Mart Shopping Trolley is the simple goal.:beer:

Pete

RedVYIISS
24-01-2008, 07:35 AM
are you any good with MS Excel?

My spreadsheet has been setup for my car (or any other VT-VZ) therefore a little research needed to enter the different gear ratio's & tyre diameters (not hard if you can use Excel).

If you can use Excel, PM me your email address and I'll email you the spreadsheet.