HOW TO: Install 330mm AP Racing Kit (Fronts)

[35R]

The following procedure outlines the steps required to install the AP Racing "front-only" four piston kit on VT~VZ (Commodore, Monaro, Statesman).

Your kit should include these components:

Two AP racing brake calipers
Two caliper mounting brackets
Two matching rotors
Two braided hoses and matching brackets (see note 2 below)
Preparation

Note 1: We had issues removing dead cold rotors, we just couldn't get them off! It might help if you tackle this job with a warm brake system, say 10 minutes driving with light braking. Unfortunately we discovered this too late (after caliper removal). In this case, try a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the rotor before removal (worked a treat for us). Also consider suitable lubricant spray for difficult rotors. Care: use appropriate gloves when handling warm or hot brake components.

Note 2: The Front AP Racing kit may not come supplied with hose mounting brakets (the Goodrich lines certainly dont come with brackets). However Matt from Race Brakes Sydney is able to source a matching bracket if you ask. Otherwise you have two options... a) Run the new hose "floating" without a bracket - not recommended but it should be fine as a temporary measure - or b) modify the existing OEM bracket to take the new braided hose

Review entire procedure below before starting work
Start with right hand side of car (complete before starting other side)
Raise vehicle with jack, taking usual precautions (safety stands etc)
Position drip tray under caliper & line to catch brake fluid
Perhaps turn wheel to facilitate easy access to caliper bolts and brake lines
Check you have correct brake fluid and bleed kit
Remove master cylinder cap, be mindful during entire process to top up fluid as you go
Clean new rotors with brake cleaner, take care not to get brake cleaner on painted rotor surface at centre
Step 1 - Disconnect brake hose from caliper

Remove the brake hose bolt at the caliper end (13mm)
Allow fluid to drip into tray
http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/P1291867.jpg

Step 2 - Remove Brake Caliper

Remove two caliper mounting bolts (19mm)
Lift caliper up and off the disc
Caliper will probaly contain fluid, drain into tray
Keep hold of caliper mounting bolts and washers (you will need them for new bracket)
http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/P1291866.jpg

Step 3 - Remove brake rotor

See note above about working with cold rotors
You may need to exert some force and/or use a rubber mallet to coax rotor off
Failing that, perhaps a block of wood and a decent sized (regular) hammer
Drill off the 3 pop rivets holding on dust shield and remove using tin snips
Inspect hub assembly for wear and rust/foreign material, take this chance to give it a quick clean up

http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/apremoved.jpg

Step 4 - Install new braided hose and bracket

Disconnect brake hose from the main line (19mm and 10mm)
Remove brake line bracket (see Note 2 above)
Attach new bracket to car body
Fit new line and (including c-clamp) to new bracket
Now is a good time to check brake fluid reservoir, top up if necessary
No bracket supplied with kit? see Note 2 above

http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/apnewhose.jpg

Step 5 - Fit caliper bracket

Use stock caliper bracket bolts and washers to attach AP Racing caliper bracket
Ensure bracket is positioned with flat side towards hub
http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/P1271805.jpg

Step 6 - Fit new rotor

Position rotor on hub
Step 7 - Fit new caliper

Carefully position caliper over rotor and line up with mounting points on new caliper bracket, fit 8mm hex bolts
If it doesnt fit over rotor, check caliper mounting bracket is orientated correctly
Turn rotor by hand to eyeball alignment of rotor and caliper, you may need to confirm rotor sits true on hub
http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/P1271810.jpg

Step 8 - Refit brake hose to caliper

Make sure you refit washers that were on the stock system
Take extra care not to thread the caliper or bolt
http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/aphosetocaliper.jpg

Step 9 - Fit pads

Remove pad retaining bracket (6mm hex bolt)
Insert pads (should drop right in)
Fit pad anti-rattle clip (see instructions with clip)
Refit pad retaining bracket
http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/P1271819.JPG

Step 10 - Bleed caliper

The AP calipers have bleed nipples on each side
Bleed outside first, then inside
Top up fluid reservoir as you go

http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/P1271825.JPG

Repeat steps for other side, refit wheels etc. and bed in brakes

Bedding in AP Racing Brakes:

Execute eight 80->15km/h stops
Allow brake system cool completely
Ideally allow 100km~200km moderate road use before track work
Bed in procedure as recommended by Race Brakes Sydney (for kit including DBA4000 rotors and Ferodo DS2500 pads)

http://trackchat.com.au/media/data/526/P1291871.jpg

DISCLAIMER: This was just how we did the installation and others may argue that there are other/better ways. I am not a qualified mechanic and just a home enthusiast with an interest in cars. The owners of trackchat bare no responsibilty for any problems or complications members may incur undertaking this install using this guide.

[Pulse Red]

Excellent post Duncan. Brakes look to. They fill out the wheels more the I thought they would. I allways notice APs fitted to cars that I see around.

[Brockfan05]

Excellent, informative post mate - well laid out and easy to understand. The only thing I could add would be to put a cover over the front 1/4 panel, and to have some water handy to wash any accidental spills.

[OLS108]

awesome thread, are the Fronts sold separate ? cost ?

[Kyle]

BRAVO duncan~!!1 well done :)

[35R]

awesome thread, are the Fronts sold separate ? cost ?

The front kit is $2750

[VooDoo]

Excellent post.

[fatas]

nice mate you love those ap i have the same ones on my vp and have worked a treat for three years :bow: to ap

[Sonny@AutoWerks]

Duncn,they look awsome and a great picture right up ! :) ,you gonna give us some feedback on the initial feel ? followed by the thunder feel :)

[Febs]

Top writeup, thanks. :)

[dattoman]

Easy eh ? :)

[35R]

Duncn,they look awsome and a great picture right up ! :) ,you gonna give us some feedback on the initial feel ? followed by the thunder feel :)

Sonny they feel fine on the street, but i havent given them a workout yet. Initial feel is good. Will follow up with a Wakefield report!

[35R]

Easy eh ? :)

Absolutely.

Dave pointed out I have missed a step.

When I installed the Harrops, we removed the dust plate thing (thus this step is missing from this particular install).

I assume you need to remove this plate for the 330mm brakes too?

I might have to dig out some pictures and put that step in.

[seedyrom]

Step 3 - Remove brake rotor

See note above about working with cold rotors
You may need to exert some force and/or use a rubber mallet to coax rotor off
Failing that, perhaps a block of wood and a decent sized (regular) hammer
Drill off the 3 pop rivets holding on dust shield and remove ;)
Inspect hub assembly for wear and rust/foreign material, take this chance to give it a quick clean up


http://upload.cainer.net//uploads/P1271825%20copy.jpg

[35R]

Step 3 - Remove brake rotor

See note above about working with cold rotors
You may need to exert some force and/or use a rubber mallet to coax rotor off
Failing that, perhaps a block of wood and a decent sized (regular) hammer
Drill off the 3 pop rivets holding on dust shield and remove ;)
Inspect hub assembly for wear and rust/foreign material, take this chance to give it a quick clean up


http://upload.cainer.net//uploads/P1271825%20copy.jpg

lol thanks Seedy for the extra step, i'll put in in the main post tonight.

Btw that bottle thing is part of a "one man bleed kit", even if there are two working on the car i just find it convenient.

[35R]

Btw, with the front dust sheild, i seem to remember we had to cut it off the hub? is there a way to remove it without cutting? (or taking the hug components off)

[BOMI]

As far as I know mate you have to take the Hub off.

Matt might know.


Troy :)

[DaveHAT]

Btw, with the front dust sheild, i seem to remember we had to cut it off the hub? is there a way to remove it without cutting? (or taking the hug components off)

I think there is Dunc but the hassle of doing it is not worth it. Much easier to just drill the rivets and tin snip the dust shield off.

[mad_HAT]

Awesome write up Dunc - top stuff :bow:

[lautray]

As far as I know mate you have to take the Hub off.

No, as Dave said, drill rivets out & use tip snips to cut away. Easy as that. No taking hub off. You will never use the dust shield again so do away with it :) .

[RBS MATT]

Yes mate good show and good info.
Some more facts with bedding brakes in is every manufacturer may have a different method so check on the pad box and remember though not to brake repeatedly in quick succession ,brake to hard and don't drive with brakes on whilst bedding them in.

Anyone else want a kit now:thumbs:

[seedyrom]

Now just on bedding in brakes.

lets say your garage/work area is elevated from the road, and the dip between the road and your driveway means that taking it an anything more than a snails pace involves scraping the bejesus out of your exhaust, tips and towball ... Would you recommend changing brakes/pads elsewhere where access to the road is flat, so that you dont screw anything up when bedding in?

Or can you apply brake on the way down (in my case it would be in reverse), before doing the 100km/h - 15km/h bedding in process ?

[BOMI]

Seedy IMHO I say no, not one little bit. It wont hurt mate.

For a detailed (sorta) look at the process go here (http://www.trackchat.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=406&highlight=rotors).


Troy :)