Moly vented / slotted rear comm disc

[RBS MATT]

These are the new rear vented and slotted molycarbide replacement rotors for VT - VZ solid rear discs.The fact these rotors are stronger,vented and you can use your existing set up without any mods make them ideal.They are stronger,lighter and also slotted and they will wear less and run cooler.The co-efficient of friction(the bite) is 25% more than a std rotor which will definitely help stop.Front rotors are also available.They are only available for VT - VZ std brake set up at the moment in front or rear.
SPECIAL is $250 a pair

http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/500/medium/vt_rear_moly.JPG
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/showphoto.php?photo=883&cat=500&ppuser=135

http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/data/503/medium/Suc30067.jpg
http://www.trackchat.com.au/media/showphoto.php?photo=877&cat=503

[BOMI]

Thanks for the info and the offer Matt.

I will be getting a set of these before my next Circuit day.


Erik, you have to get these man at the rate you destroy rear Rotors.

Have you asked Matt about that?

Matt Eriks car uses heaps or rear rotor, the split is meant to be 70/30 yeah but I think, if you ask Erik he'll tell you its more. E?


Troy :thumbs:

[Kyle]

Any chance of doing these for front and rear of ba's Matt? :)

[235rwkw]

will slots to the edge cause cracking?

[RBS MATT]

Thanks for the info and the offer Matt.

I will be getting a set of these before my next Circuit day.


Erik, you have to get these man at the rate you destroy rear Rotors.

Have you asked Matt about that?

Matt Eriks car uses heaps or rear rotor, the split is meant to be 70/30 yeah but I think, if you ask Erik he'll tell you its more. E?


Troy :thumbs:

I suppose Eric will test the product at some stage and find out for sure how it rates.What pads does Eric run in his car.
PS.I still don't know everyone here but i am sure i will eventually.

Any chance of doing these for front and rear of ba's Matt? :)

At this stage no but will let everyone know if and when it does happen.

will slots to the edge cause cracking?

I can only answer this as truthfully as i can.I don't think they will from the info i have been given and there are other brands of rotors running the slot to the edge that have not cracked at all and these molycarbide rotors are made from stronger material and this is one reason they can be made vented.
Any new product on the market will get a thorough testing i am sure as there will be many different driving and braking conditions these rotors will be put through but i suppose from what i read that if someone like Eric puts them through there paces anything may happen.

[Brockfan05]

Please let us know when or if they become available for the VE Commodore as there are a few VE owners on here now. Thanks Matt.

[dattoman]

Erik uses 49's though
And Formulas

[VTSII Clubby]

Matt,
Are they available for a VT Series II Clubsport? (I think they are bigger than standard but i dont know the size?) I would be very interested if that is the case.
Kyle.

[RBS MATT]

Matt,
Are they available for a VT Series II Clubsport? (I think they are bigger than standard but i dont know the size?) I would be very interested if that is the case.
Kyle.

AT the moment only the std size VT-VZ front and rear rotors are available.When other sizes become available i will put them on the forum.

[HSVSV6]

hardly any stock of these rotor i have them on my acr with ebc greens and the difference is amazing so if you thinking bout it i would get in quick or miss out till the new formula compound is ready

[DaveHAT]

UPDATE: for those curious about the performance of these molycarbide rotors ...

I fitted some of these molycabide rear rotors earlier this year and last weekend got to test them under circuit conditions. I'm happy to announce that there were no issues and they performed nicely. :bravo: Admittedly I probably wasn't giving them as much of a pizzling as some might but they got hot enough to have smoke coming off the brake pads :shock: Pads used were Ferodo TS2000 ... which are argubaly the worlds dustiest brake pads. :headbang:

I wish the same could be said for the "HSV" derived 330mm front rotors which by the afternoon had created violent pedal pulse ... and which ... when I removed the wheels to inspect why ... had come lose on the hubs. That mightn't be the cause but still not a nice thing to discover at the end of the day.

Summary: Thumbs up for the molycarbide rear rotors from me.

[235rwkw]

UPDATE: for those curious about the performance of these molycarbide rotors ...

I fitted some of these molycabide rear rotors earlier this year and last weekend got to test them under circuit conditions. I'm happy to announce that there were no issues and they performed nicely. :bravo: Admittedly I probably wasn't giving them as much of a pizzling as some might but they got hot enough to have smoke coming off the brake pads :shock: Pads used were Ferodo TS2000 ... which are argubaly the worlds dustiest brake pads. :headbang:

I wish the same could be said for the "HSV" derived 330mm front rotors which by the afternoon had created violent pedal pulse ... and which ... when I removed the wheels to inspect why ... had come lose on the hubs. That mightn't be the cause but still not a nice thing to discover at the end of the day.

Summary: Thumbs up for the molycarbide rear rotors from me.

i've been using them on the front with greens very little dust. but i find the greens tend to get shudder if you use them lightly for a while, build up some resin. need to give them a few hard stops to clean that up.
unless they just warp at temp, but i used a dial gauge on them when were shuddering and runout was ok. might have to go back to the good dust city ferodos


you said the hsv were loose on the hubs. hsv screw to the hub separately? since the only thing that holds them on OEM is the wheel and wheel nuts, they are loose each time you take the wheel off unless rusted to the hub.

[DaveHAT]

you said the hsv were loose on the hubs. hsv screw to the hub separately? since the only thing that holds them on OEM is the wheel and wheel nuts, they are loose each time you take the wheel off unless rusted to the hub.

Maybe on yours they're lose everytime you take the wheel off but every VT onwards Commodore I've removed a wheel from has required a rubber mallet or similar to get the rotor loose ... i.e. as you say, rusted in place to an extent.

HSV rotors secure to the hub the same was as OEM ... with the wheel. My point was that on Monday they got hot enough that any rust that was "helping" to hold them in place was gone and when I removed the wheel the rotor literally fell off the hub with the caliper only holding it in place.

I can't help but think that this has some part to play in the severe pedal pulse I (& others previously) have experienced with these 330mm rotors when used on a circuit.

[RBS MATT]

i've been using them on the front with greens very little dust. but i find the greens tend to get shudder if you use them lightly for a while, build up some resin. need to give them a few hard stops to clean that up.
unless they just warp at temp, but i used a dial gauge on them when were shuddering and runout was ok. might have to go back to the good dust city ferodos


you said the hsv were loose on the hubs. hsv screw to the hub separately? since the only thing that holds them on OEM is the wheel and wheel nuts, they are loose each time you take the wheel off unless rusted to the hub.

This is why i am not a fan of putting EBC greenstuff on heavier cars as you will more often find it won't be the rotors warped but resins and deposits left on the rotor face from these pads which causes a small high spot so what happens is with every rotor revolution it picks that up under braking and feels like a warped rotor and i guess this would be why when you dialed them up with a gauge there is no run out.Generally when a rotor is machined it will take that off.
Just something we have come across as a common problem over the years with these pads but generally it isn't found to be a problem in small cars with these pads.

[DaveHAT]

Matt ...

Any news on the larger (330mm) front molycarbide rotors for Commodore?

I'd be keen to give those a try. :yep:

[RBS MATT]

Matt ...

Any news on the larger (330mm) front molycarbide rotors for Commodore?

I'd be keen to give those a try. :yep:

Still only std size commodore

[Hazza]

Tiger.

I think you will find it is more the pads (as Matt says) that are the problem than the rotors. I have the same front rotors on my car and I have been to 4 track days running 1:11's and 1:12's and the discs are great. I was running green stuff for the first couple of track days but they almost fall apart when they get really hot (can cause interesting symptoms). The reds feel alot better. Maybe give them a go.

Hazza.

[DaveHAT]

Tiger.

I think you will find it is more the pads (as Matt says) that are the problem than the rotors. I have the same front rotors on my car and I have been to 4 track days running 1:11's and 1:12's and the discs are great. I was running green stuff for the first couple of track days but they almost fall apart when they get really hot (can cause interesting symptoms). The reds feel alot better. Maybe give them a go.

Hazza.

Thanks Hazza,

So confirm please ... you're running EBC red pads with the same brake setup as mine?

What is the brake dust like with those? These TS2000s whilst quite good on the circuit are the dustiest pads I think I've ever used ... after 1 week of regular driving the front wheels are almost black. :headbang:

[Hazza]

I am running the HSV performance (330mm twin piston front and 315 single rear) with EBC redstuff. The greenstuff were okay, but when they get really hot they almost disintegrate. I never had any pulsating like your getting but the reds basically stop aswell as the greens when cold, and way outperform when hot. They are a bit more squealy though, and my wheels are black with dust now, but I havent cleaned the car for 6 months. :shock:

Thanks Hazza,

So confirm please ... you're running EBC red pads with the same brake setup as mine?

What is the brake dust like with those? These TS2000s whilst quite good on the circuit are the dustiest pads I think I've ever used ... after 1 week of regular driving the front wheels are almost black. :headbang:

[saj]

Update: I've used these on the rear with DS2500's for 3 track days with no signs of cracking or warping and the wear on the rotor seems minimal. And yes there've been very hot



http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g24/saj_01/shane2012072-1.jpg

[dattoman]

Still needs more cowbell


Good to see they are still working well Shane

[BOMI]

And yes there've been very hot

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g24/saj_01/shane2012072-1.jpg

You dont say :eek:

I like it a lot, great pic!!

Troy :)