VX "K" frame modification...?????

[Aeron]

Ok, it’s time for more front camber on the VX.
Im wanting to do the “K” frame modification (drilling different holes to move the lower control arms out, etc…) to my VX so I can get more front camber, but im not sure who does it in Sydney. Im not going to attempt doing it myself because it involves welding in a piece and basically I don’t know what im doing.

So if anyone knows who does this type of mod in Sydney, I’d love to know.
Also, if anyone has any other info about other bits I may need for the job (longer tie rod ends, etc…) then it would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys!!

[35R]

pretty sure heasmans can do it (i had my munro done there) and i hear that WSP can as well? although they may suggest the clevis bracket modification instead, ask Luke. and no it's not anything to do with your redneck cousin (named Clevis).. or is it?

[Kyle]

Did you try rallyequip down the rd?

[ghz28]

I had mine done a few years ago by Brock Engineering and then had rack ends lengthened by cutting and sleeving with Chrome moly tube TIG welded to them. There are supposed to be Ford rack ends that fit, but could not easily find them and it was cheap to have the rack ends lengthened.

[Aeron]

Originally Posted by Kyle

Did you try rallyequip down the rd?

Yeh, they dont do it. They'd just send it to Heasmans to get it done. I shall give Heasemans a call tomorrow.

Poor car has been on stands for about 5months now (

[seldo]

Heasmans

[Luke@WSP]

Aeron, we can carry out the mod in our workshop here no problems.

We also have the option of our custom-made lower inner bush, which has an offset crush tube giving approx 1degree more negative camber.

We also have our off-set lower clevis bracket struts, which space the strut inwards 19mm more than standard. With a 'normal' offset wheel and no wheel spacers we can achieved 4degrees negative camber.

[GTS Listy]

What sort of budget to do all these changes cost. Is it cheaper than buying a set of BMW copies with a +38 offset front and back and a offset top strut mount. That is about -3 extra camber compared to stock right there for about $1 to $1.3K.
Maybe it is and is a better option.
My mate is doing a similar thing getting all these changes made to the frame and other suspension mods to chase -1 deg and -0.5 degree here and there. Cost him a small fortune so far and he is still trying to get any real camber. His pedders coil overs dont help either as that lock nut is smack on the wheel area. He looses the free -1 degree due to the lock nut position before he even starts trying to gain more- camber.

[ghz28]

I think this is where the chassis mod comes into its own. BRE charged me $330 to do the mod, a lot for what really is involved seeing as it was a bare K frame, no assembly or disassembly to do. But I went with them because they were the CAMS approved modifier for the Ute series at the time. At least then I had a CAMS approved mod on my car if anything untoward happened.

My mount was moved out 20mm, as per the Utes rules at the time. This, using factory stock HSV 18x8 wheels, MCA front struts and a 10mm spacer allowed 6.5* of camber on both front wheels. I have since adjusted it back to 4.5* on both sides, but that mod in and of itself allowed that much camber to be dialled in without fouling of struts, wheel arches or whatever.

The rack ends are normal Holden aftermarket ones ($25 each or something ridiculous), cut with a saw, with a 60mm length of chrome moly tube TIG welded over them to allow 20mm additional length. This allows 20mm overlap at each end of the cut, and 20mm in the middle. I supplied the chrome moly tube and the workshop charged $50 a pair to do the cut and weld. I recently had another 4 more done as spares as one of the balljoints had worn out.

So, total cost to me was $330 plus $80 return freight to BRE, $50 something for the rack ends, and $50 to have them welded, and about $20 in chrome moly tube to do 6 of them.

I run normal centred spherical bearing strut tops, and I have just been told that MCA offset my hub mounts out 5mm too. MCA use eccentric "holes" rather than slots to mount the hub, so it can't move in camber setting without actually bending something.

Hope that helps Aeron with deciding where to go with yours. The offset chassis mount is still factory strong, gives plenty of latitude for additional camber, in fact I think the 20mm gives around 3* straight up, and the chrome moly lengthened rack ends are also factory strong, or better.

My next step will be to replace the rack end ball joints with spherical bearings.....but that can wait now that I have 3 spares left.

gh

[choppo]

Aeron,
if your stuck, i can get it done pretty quick and cheap for ya. Ill have to check the price but i think $200 - $250... (just the K frame mod)

[Aeron]

Thank you, thank you, thank you to everyone for their help.

I'll let you know how I get on

[ova400]

Does anyone have any pictures of the K frame once this mod has been done, I'm looking to do this now as well and just want to see exactly want they do.

Thanks

Dave

[seldo]

Originally Posted by Luke@WSP

Aeron, we can carry out the mod in our workshop here no problems.

We also have the option of our custom-made lower inner bush, which has an offset crush tube giving approx 1degree more negative camber.

We also have our off-set lower clevis bracket struts, which space the strut inwards 19mm more than standard. With a 'normal' offset wheel and no wheel spacers we can achieved 4degrees negative camber.

Sorry Luke - I'm quite sure that you can also do this mod with utmost proficiency - Just that I have used the other mob in aeons past In fact it is so long ago that I have no idea if the same people even run the joint.

[Luke@WSP]

All good, just throwing out the offer